Tripura is quite underrated, as far as the culinary landscape is concerned. So, this blogpost is dedicated towards the Best food of Tripura, Agartala. With a mix of Bengali influences and the indigenous flavors of the Tripuri communities, the food here is an invitation to a foodie.
About Tripura
Tripura is a state with a rich history that dates back centuries, and every corner of it tells the story of the legacy of the ancient Manikya dynasty that ruled the region for over 500 years. The state’s name “Tripura” is derived from the word “by the water”, which goes well with its rivers, lakes, and fertile areas. One of the most sacred and historic places in the state is the Matabari Temple in Udaipur, a revered Shaktipeeth temple dedicated to Goddess Tripura Sundari. Built around the 16th century, the temple attracts thousands of devotees and provides an insight into the spiritual heart of Tripura and the traditions that are deeply intertwined with the local community. For me, visiting Matabari was not only a spiritual experience but also helped me understand how deeply the cultural, spiritual and culinary traditions of Tripura are intertwined. But more than the history, let us dive to find out the best food of Tripura, Agartala, the capital of Tripura.
Breakfast at Dilip Da
Breakfast at Dilip da’s place is quite common for the residents of Tripura. Please check the location here. Dilip da offers hot flaky parotas and fluffy kochuris, each cooked fresh and served with only 2 accompaniments. With Parota, comes the chana dal, and with kachori, they give a semi-dry sabzi. And both are pretty good. This simple but delicious breakfast dish reminds me of what Tripuri cooking is all about hearty, honest food that can be enjoyed without any pretense.
Lunch at Adi Shankar Hotel
They say the Shankar Hotel is an emotion in Agartala. Do check the location here. This 65-year-old establishment has perfected the art of simple yet soul-satisfying Bengali cuisine. It’s a typical pice hotel with 3 of them- each good and claiming to be the original. We were taken to the one in the center. And it was good. The fish variety was mind-blowing, each piece was well-endowed and nice homely taste. The price is quite on the steep side, but who cares? I suggest the Hilsa (from that one piece, 2 pieces can be curved out for a regular restaurant) and mutton.
Once at Adi Shankar Hotel, do check out their other interesting stuff, Shidol Shutki. Shidol is the puti machh (Puntius fish). They are dried and that’s how the name Shutki came up. they are then roasted on fire, dried up the water content, and mixed/ sauteed with a heavy dose of onion, mustard oil, and roasted red chilies. The dish is quite spicy but addictive. Definitely recommended.
Traditional dishes of Tripura street
Swapna Mosdeng
As I ventured further into the culinary heart of Tripura, I knew I couldn’t leave without trying the pork bhorta. There is a place named Bhogoban Chowmohani. Chowmohani is a square and the shop to go there is Swapna Mosdeng. Mosdeng is Bhorta hence the name. And it’s famous for one dish- Pork Bhorta. Boiled pork is mixed with onion, green chilies, and lemon leaves crushed. It’s a zero-oil dish and brilliant in taste. They serve it with phulka and Bangui. Bangui is steamed sticky rice (or Binnir chal, in the local language) with cashew and maybe pork chunks inside. The entire thing is wrapped in banana leaf for steaming. Bangui is traditionally enjoyed during cultural festivals and is like a celebration in itself.
Hotel Haji
When I first tasted the pork Shikke at the hotel Haji, I was immediately shocked by the perfectly balanced lean and fat pork meat. Each spice is precisely the combination of spices that improves the natural richness of pork without imposing pork. Grilled to perfection, the fat melts into the meat, resulting in smoky, tender, juicy, and full-bodied kebabs. It’s a simple dish, but every bite feels like a celebration of Tripura’s love for bold, hearty flavors. Whether served as a quick snack or as part of a larger meal, Haji Hotel’s pork kebabs always impress and are a true testament to how traditional methods and quality ingredients can combine to create something truly memorable.
Somehow I felt that pork Shikke is an adaptation of its Assamese cousin, Pork Khorika.
Rahul’s egg cake and Halim
City Center is the heart of Agartala street food (please check the Google location here) and you get numerous street food joints around this zone. But, this Egg cake and Halim caught our attention. Egg cake is one street food item and is damn tasty. The egg is put on flour batter in a strange-looking basking dish and is baked over fire. The slightly sweet tasted Egg Cake is complemented with the semi-spicy halim and is a good stuff. A combo of 1 egg cake and a bowl of Halim is priced at 60/- and any extra piece of cake will set you back at 20/-. But the taste is good and I loved it at Rahul Egg Cake, beside City Center, Agartala.
Pitha shop near City Center
Pitha is a steamed dumpling from the Indian subcontinent and is seen in different forms, and textures in India and Bangladesh. Beside Bishal Megamart (check the location on Google map here), there is a roadside Pitha stall, which makes some nice pitha (chitoi Pitha+ Bhapa Pitha+ Seddho Pitha+ Malpua+ Patisapta) and each one is priced at 10/- per PC. Good stuff and recommended for a light evening snack.
Hotel Sonar Tori, Agartala
I had the pleasure of being invited to Agartala’s famous Hotel Sonar Tori, a beloved place to enjoy Bengali and Mughlai cuisine in a cozy atmosphere. Their Petai Parota, paired with tender mutton and chicken dishes, brought an elegance to traditional recipes that felt both indulgent and comforting. Inside Hotel Sonar Tori, there is the in-house bar, Sip and Savour, a lively bar with unique cocktails and complimentary food. I especially liked the Wahan Mosdeng, a typical pork bhorta but without the oil, and the prawn crackers, crispy and tasty and perfectly paired with the creative drinks on the menu. The bar’s creative approach to pairing cocktails with small plates is an unforgettable experience and a delightful twist on the traditional flavors of Tripura.
The dinner was at Ekante, the in-house restaurant famous for its incredible mutton biryani and petai parota with duck curry. The dish was flavorful and the lamb was so tender it seemed to melt with every bite.
And before I forget, there is another item, which I tasted at Hotel Sonar Tori, at their bar, which amazed me. It’s Nona Ilish. Dried Hilsa is pulled and cooked with Onion, mustard oil, and roasted green chilies. They are then wrapped inside lau pata and roasted on a griddle. The typical aroma of Hilsa rules- sheer brilliance.
Montu biryani
Whatever we understand about biryani, took a toss, when we went to visit Montu Biryani at Agartala (Please check the Google location here). It’s called the Emotion of Agartala and is a typical roadside cart. they serve Pulao and meat curry (both Mutton and chicken) named as Biryani. No offense, the taste is pretty good, but the quantity is on the lesser side, as per the price. A combo of Pulao+ Mutton/ Chicken combo is priced around 120/180 Rs per plate. Their Amina Chaamp would remind you of the old Kolkata Chicken Chaamp. One PC Chaamp+ Bengali-styled fried rice is 130/-.
Good stuff for a one-time try.
The sweet side of Tripura
Abhinandan Sweets
Tripura has some pretty interesting sweets to offer. My first discovery was Kheer Tua, To explain, it’s a long version of rasogolla dipped in malai and sprinkled with grated kheer. The dish strikes the perfect balance – rich but not overwhelming – and showcases the simplicity that makes Tripura’s food so special. Another unforgettable treat I tried was Kheer Doi, often topped with a dash of cardamom for that extra layer of flavor. And then there was the luchi filled with halwa, affectionately known as “Dead Body Sweets”. I am not sire about the origin of the name, but tastewise, it was pretty average.
Matabari Peda market
Matabari temple is among the 51 sati-piths in India and a place, where devotees from any region can come and pay a homage. Please read about it here. In front of it, there is a small market (like a proper marketplace) dedicated to Pera. And every shop there sold only that one single dish. I must confess, I’ve never tasted such tasty pera anywhere in my whole life. Maybe it’s devotion, something else, not very sure.
Tripura is a hidden gem for those who love food and culture. From hearty breakfasts and street food delights to traditional dishes and regional sweets, Tripura offers a rich tapestry of flavors that reflect its vibrant culture. So, if you ever find yourself in Northeast India, make sure you take a trip through the culinary world of Tripura. Trust me, this is a delicious experience you won’t want to miss.
I’ve been in Agartala for just a couple of days, but I am sure there are many more places yet to be discovered. DO let us know in the comment section about the best food of Tripura and we’ll try co cover them during my next visit.
Bon appetite!!!
indrajit.lahiri@ymail.com
