The ramzan foodwalk in chitpur

And the time of the year is here, where Kolkata rises after sun-set- the ramzan time. After a full day of roza, the muslim community here takes on the streets with their offering of clothes, ittar and off course food items and we are more than happy to join them in their celebration. And, as usual, our ramzan foodwalk starts … 

Last week was my this year’s first visit to the chitpur area, the famed Zakaria street and was more than happy to see the offering. So, here I am trying to provide a brief foodie-roadmap for the same.

You can check the location of starting point here

We started from the Nakhoda masjid on rabindra sarani. During this time of the year, please reach there after sunset (food stalls start from the afternoon though) so that you don’t miss the glitter and aura of the place.



Take the next lane from the masjid and start cursing me. Because, this time, there is no road beside the mosque. Its a mish-mash of numerous make-shift stalls on road. Welcome to the Ramzan time in chitpur. Enter the lane. I promise you won’t be disappointed. A little further and you’ll find the stalls selling large bread pieces. Don’t be surprised. Those are the things you’ve heard so much about. They are called Bakarkhani and the second variety is sheermal.

Bakarkhani & sheermal stall
Bakarkhani & sheermal stall

Bakarkhani is a thick, crispy (often layered) flat bread. Its almost biscuit like textured and smeared with poppy seeds before baking in oven. They serve 3 varieties here. Succumb to the snob effect and buy the costliest one- 80/ per peice and I promise you won’t regret it. For us, it went extremely well with morning tea (after re-heated a little in OTG).

Bakarkhani bread
Bakarkhani bread

Now, sheermal is kind of a more sweet/ soft variety of naan, where warm milk is used in the dough and it more resembles the danish pastry. We again purchased the prime version of 25/- a piece and the next day gorged on it with the afternoon tea at home.

The soft Sheermal
The soft Sheermal

While tea is here, how can ‘Biscoot’ be left behind for a bong ? And we ended up grabbing some nankhatai biscuit. This is a variety of shortbread believed to have originated in Surat during the Dutch era. We got a below variety at 100/- a kg and around 8-9 pieces came at 500 gms. But its pretty mediocre in quality and avoidable.

Nankhatai biscuit

Go a little furthr and at right-hand corner of the first crossing, you can find Taskeen shop. The were making some brilliant Chicken Changezi and Maahi Akbari. Do not bother, you won’t find Chicken Changezi in wikipedia. Its the desi muslim answer to KFC-ishtyled chicken. Large chicken pieces are double fried and served piping hot. Maahi Akbari is large Katla fish chunks marinated and deep-fried. Damn yummy and a must-have….. Chicken Chungezi was coming at 440/- a kg and Maahi Akbari was 540/- a kg.

Taskeen- the chicken changhezi & maahi akbari specialist

Taskeen- the chicken changhezi & maahi akbari specialist
Taskeen- the chicken changhezi & maahi akbari specialist

While I was chatting with the shop-boy, he suggested “saab, thora falooda bhi taste kijiye ? ” “Karaiye” was my response and I was served with one of the best falooda I ever had in my life along with a piece of shahi tukra. Personally, I liked the shahi tukra of Royal Indian Hotel better, but this is not bad by any means… Falooda was 40/- a plate and so was Shahi Tukra.

Faluda stall- jakaria street


Shahi tukra

After all these sweets, I was craving for some ghosht-Roti. And as per suggstion by my good friend Deepanjan Ghosh, I went to Bombay Tea house.

This is at the first left lane corner from the Nakhoda Maszid. They serve a brilliant beef champ- to be paired with tandoori roti (all year long) and a pretty good Beef Boti kebab (Personally I like Adams’ version better though). The quality is consistent throughout the year. Go for it, definitely you won’t regret it. But, let me warn you. The biggest challenge this time of the year is to find the shop, as its name-board is covered in shamiana and posters now.


Bombay tea house beef champ
Bombay tea house beef champ
Bombay tea house beef boti kebab
Bombay tea house beef boti kebab
Bombay ta house ispecial haleem
Bombay ta house ispecial haleem

Bombay tea house
Bombay tea house


Tandoori roti and beef champ

We are almost full and so must be you. So, let’s go and pack some take-away from the sweetshops in this area. Head straight for the Bombay sweets on colootola road crossing. You’ll find a brilliant dry fruits halwa in this place. Its 450/- a kg and extremely rich in taste. This is a little sticky in nature but a heavenly taste. Statutory advice, they tend to get over by 830 PM, so better hurry.


Dry fruits halwa from Bombay Sweets
Dry fruits halwa from Bombay Sweets

Our last stop should be Haji Allauddin Sweets  at the phears lane just a little way back for their Ghond Ki Halwa. The best variety there is 400/- a kg and topped with mawa, makhana and coconut slices- go for it. You won’t regret.

Hazi allauddin sweets

Ghond ki halwa from haji allauddin sweets
Ghond ki halwa from haji allauddin sweets


For the kebabs (e.g. Sutli kebab and kheeri kebab), you may like to read this post .We are full and so are our hands. But many of you must be thinking why I’ve omitted Haleem – the staple ramzan-time-food of bongs ? Well, Frankly, I don;t like haleem personally and rather would have another bowl of Dal Gosht. Hence…… Till then, Cheers and happy eating !!!

And if you have some time, in hand, you might like to watch my foodwalk video of 2017

You can check my regular foodwalk experience here

Bon Apetite !!!

Please feel free to comment and share.

I can be reached at 9903528225 /

31 Comments Add yours

  1. Rajesh Bhattacharjee says:

    Byapok photostory ar photowalk

  2. Sagnik Datta says:

    A detailed and mouth watering blog… thank you Indrajit da.. will surely be there soon to have a delicious food walk…

  3. OOOhhhh what a place for this time of the year, i hav ben to Bombay tea house before but this time the whole area seems like a food heaven, goin there as soon as posible. You’ll soon be rewrded as Best food Guide of the city by Tamron.

    1. LOL- Fingers crossed !!!

  4. Too good … I have to soon visit here

  5. shfaan03 says:

    Bah bah…I’m myself yet to pay a visit this year…this has made me restless though! Gotta go this week

    1. Thnx for liking it chief

  6. Thoroughly enjoyable (especially for the photos) and informative! Can’t wait to go for a foodwalk.

  7. esob porley office ey bosey kaaj taaj korbo ki korey!!! weekend in Kolkata… done!

    1. LOL- Thnx for liking it

  8. Jayeeta says:

    Had a mouthwatering time while going through your experience at the lunch time…..Wonderfully penned experience….At least in the corporate blast we still have people enjoying the simplest factors of life….thanks for this wonderful share…

    1. LOL. Thanks for liking…. Keep sharing. Bon apetit !!!

  9. Sharbatc says:

    Well written, just a small point, I think you confused language and religion in the first para, as in ‘we Bengalis’ with ‘the Muslim community’. I’m sure you agree that the two intersect also. Thanks for the great post!

    1. Definitely i agree with you. Its my mistake that i jumbled up. Thanks for pointing out the same…..

  10. Devraj says:

    Great article and journey Indrajeet. Growing up in Colootola, Zakeria street area these were some very must haves during Ramzan, except Chicken chungrezi (must be a new entrant to the list). Try Daal gosht from Islaamia hotel, not sure if they still make it.

  11. Devpurna Talapatra says:

    Was planning to go, thanks for all the information! The pictures are brilliant!

    1. Thanks for liking. Pls share if possible

  12. NILADRI Adhikary says:

    Darun byapar.. porey lobh lagche.. 😜😜

  13. Zakria St. er okhane ami ge6ilam haleem khete…. jantam na kouto niye jete hoi…. dokan e bose kheye6ilam sese… Ramzan cholakalin… Chapke piter Chaal tule deini bhaggo valo amar… :3

  14. Sapna says:

    Yummy….. I did food walks in Delhi and during Ramzan old Delhi is a must visit the place. This reminded me to go to Chandani Chowk asap. Shahi tukda looks so different then what we get here.

    1. Yes, but both are good in their own ways

  15. Kalyan says:

    Nice read and thanks for posting. Would this be at Kidderpore?

    1. No. This is at chitpore/ Zakaria street area. Basically the area adjacent to nakhoda masjid

  16. Anish Saha says:

    Office a bosey dekhechilam post ta … but bhaggish khulini saradin r kaj kortey partam na…r akhon shomoshshata holo raater ghum ure gelo…kokhon ertheke kichu pete felbo tai bhabchi…WOW

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