As I always say, “There lies numerous Calcutta inside Calcutta”….. When I told one of my friends that there’s a bar located almost on Esplanade crossing, where till date, Tuborg beer is priced at 115/- all inclusive, all I got was a glance of disbelief. And when I said, that the bar is also having AC and proper seating arrangement, he was nearly sure that I am on grass. So, the journey started for arguably Kolkata’s one of the oldest (and cheapest) bar with a pinch of history tucked in and some chilled beer.
Please remember, there can be an awesome foodwalk just near to this place … Check it here
Location and timing:
Standing in front of the famous K C Das sweet shop at the esplanade crossing, one needs to take the Lenin Sarani towards Moulali and the first dingy lane on right is the (in)famous Metro gully. Get in and on your right, you can find one place where numerous bikes are parked. The adjacent door is closely guarded by one security guy and lots of people waiting outside for their piece of chair. Its open on all regular days till 10 PM.
Just a piece of warning. Please avoid 530-7 PM, as its almost impossible to get a seat there as is full (mostly regulars). The service is closed during 6-615 PM, when the daily puja is performed at the counter. Mr Gour chandra Shaw is extremely particular in this aspect. Just when you get in those doors, you’ll find the menu on your right printed on a glow sign and tucked on wall and one LED screen displaying the liquor prices. Welcome to Chhota Bristol (once again).
Check the location on Google map here
As per my friend Amitava Gupta (heritage enthusiast), Shaw’s Bar was coined with the name Chota Bristol from the fact that it is housed on the backside of the same building where once the legendary Bristol Hotel used to stand. Journalists visiting this joint jokingly gave this name which has remained till date. This is why despite the entrance of the bar being from “Metro Gulli”, the address is 1A Jawaharlal Nehru road.
Inside chhota Bristol Bar
Inside it seems like you’re in a market. everybody’s shouting, rather talking among themselves, having small talks- the topics ranging from politics to football, political leaders to religious leaders and any damn thing in between. The first challenge is to find a chair, or even to find one shared chair and getting settled. Once you start settling, your hearing capacity shifts its focus from the humming to individual talks and chit chats. And suddenly, out of nowhere a waiter appears. No, its against the norm there to carry a drinks card. They expect you to know your drinks and off course, you’re not expecting any fancy cocktail there.
Order your drinks and pay the waiter (its a pre-paid world). He’ll come back with your drinks and exact change and drinks for a more tables/ persons in a unique fashion. And in my last 15 years of experience there I’ve never seen them mixing up orders- never. with booze, comes a complementary chat of chhola, sliced giner and rock salt. You need to pay 2/- for a bowl of ice though.
About food and drinks at chhota Bristol bar
The beer is chilled and the glass is clean. Please don’t try to look down at the floors, as they say, let the sleeping dogs lie. Chhota Bristol doesn’t have a kitchen or food option, neither they plan to have it in near future. Instead there are snacks vendors. There are small joints outside on the road, who make some excellent chat and they sell it inside. Tip them around 5/- extra and special care will be taken for your order.
The range varies from peanuts (6/-) to mutton liver stir fried with onion and sliced green chilly (70/-). The mandatory fish finger is there 8 pcs for 70/-) with humble kasundi and mutton Bheja Fry. A lot many other options are there like chilly chicken, cheese cubes (diced in small cubes), salted cashew etc but one can’t have all at one go. The food is good, but nothing extraordinary. Regular honest spicy food, which goes well with booze. So, one can eat his heart out within 200-250/- per head.
My experience here
As I said, the food is not extra ordinary, but the overall ambiance is. In a place like this, you get to see the real Calcutta. Normal people from nearby offices, college goers, junior to mid level executives, businessmen- they all come down. Its more like a adda-khana with booze thrown in. Rather it’s more like a small version of the city herself, in its brilliant diverse state. Snobs are not welcome here, I heard neither are women (probably ladies wouldn’t have felt comfortable even). Its a dedicated men’s world inside and its preferred this way.
Even, here, I’ve seen a waiter denying drinks to a guest saying “boudi has allowed only 2 pegs and I won’t serve you more than that”. Now, Calcutta is meant to be this personal, whether we like it or not. In last probably more than 100 years, Chhota Bristol has been like this only (only the AC has been added). And frankly, we don’t normally mind that. Certain places are meant to represent a city- its insider stories and this is one of them….. Needless to say, I’ve won the bet from my friend and now, even he’s a regular at this joint.
P.S: If you’re still looking for dinner, you may try the nearby Anarkali Restaurant, for its Indian chilly chicken….. the blogpost can be checked here …
Bon apetite !!!
Comments and critics welcome.
I can be reached at indrajit.lahiri@ymail.com
39 comments
Brilliant post….loved it…almost wanting to experience…however from pics I can understand that this place is devoid of any women audience. Although I am sure my band wagon of boy friends would love going there.
You bet
Just something fabulous and was yet unknown to me. I might have passed the place a number of times, there was Oli pub in the list…but this was an amazing take. Good to read Sir and the food look too delicious.
Thnx lady
exquisite
This post smells of the quintessential Kolkata! Loved reading it! And I expect such posts on this blog. Keep such posts coming in between your reviews of upmarket restaurants that can be seen in any metro.
Brilliant post. Makes me long for home even more. Something inexplicably romantic about such joints!
Ooh Nostalgia, thy name is Shaw Bar. Remember, how we rookies just out of college went to this place one evening, ordered our drinks (Rum) and were satisfied with the complimentary chhilam and ginger when a dozen of law professionals kind of gheraoed us and filled our plates with kebabs and stuff from theirs. “Khao, khao, lojja koro na, nijer jayga toh eta. Amra boro dadar moto, dichchi, kheye felo.” OMG, never felt home like this anywhere in the world later. And of course changed our opinion about the ukil folks. 😉
Now that’s some experience…
*Read chhola in place of chhilam please. That damn autocorrect. 🙂
Brilliant depiction. Feeling nostalgic now.
I am spell bound .. Awesome writing
Frequented this place from1970- 1984.. AC was there then too. But interior is now much better as I see in the photo.
Only 2-3 times I had sat with Mr Shaw across the counter to have a drink with a friend . that friend a very few were allowed to sit at the counter ..I recall Mr Shaw showed a marriage album of family
Must visit next time I Am in Cal
Thanks for thiswo derful writing
Thnx for liking it
Very interesting. As a photographer, I’d love to go here sometime.
You’d probably love this place
I have one KOSCHEN> How did boudi communicate to the waiter about the 2 pegs if women don’t go in?
Mobile calls…..
Thanks for your information.. Evn i wl try it out there.
As I said before, this one truly great post. Loved it!
Thnx a ton
Sadly for all the lovely ladies going into raptures about CB – it’s a very chauvinistic watering hile that doesn’t allow women. So you need to invite Trupti Desai to Calcutta for breaking into this all male sanctum-sanctorum – which can almost claim the status of a temple for the regulars. But, as far as I know, CB is ‘t a 100 years old. It derives its name from Bristol Hotel which was housed in this once grand building. Bristol (owned by my Mother’s maternal family – Mitras of Patipukur) was one of the leading hotels of Calcutta before the Grand or Great Eastern. After it went to seed – like so many Bengali enterprises – Shaw’s Bar popped up at the back and was fondly christened Chita Bristol in the memory of the gran old dame who once stood there. Follow me on Twitter : @SandipGhose and Instagram – which has many pics of Chotta Bristol and Baro-Duari nearby.
Sadly for all the lovely ladies going into raptures about CB – it’s a very chauvinistic watering hile that doesn’t allow women. So you need to invite Trupti Desai to Calcutta for breaking into this all male sanctum-sanctorum – which can almost claim the status of a temple for the regulars. But, as far as I know, CB is ‘t a 100 years old. It derives its name from Bristol Hotel which was housed in this once grand building. Bristol (owned by my Mother’s maternal family – Mitras of Patipukur) was one of the leading hotels of Calcutta before the Grand or Great Eastern. After it went to seed – like so many Bengali enterprises – Shaw’s Bar popped up at the back and was fondly christened Chita Bristol in the memory of the gran old dame who once stood there.
Thnx for the update
Brilliant story- know this place – never tried but after reading this feel like trying soon – beside Tuborg – Carlsberg Elephant is also visible beer over there.
I loved the post. Being the granddaughter of Gour Chandra Shaw , I feel really proud of the achievements we have accomplished all through their hard work. Thanks for sharing this post.
Thanks. I’d really love to have a word with seniors of your family for my blog. Please let me know if possible. Would appreciate a whatsapp/ PM at 9903528225
Compact, informative and very smartly written…loved the article and Thanks for sharing another quintessential facet of my city! AT the risk of sounding desperate, I must confess that I have a knack of visiting the local pubs as these places always oozes out the local life more than anything else. While I was more than enthusiastic to venture this place next, i suddenly stumbled upon your line “Snobs are not welcome here, I heard neither are women..”, really ? Not even accompanied by a male friend ? In your next visit can you please ask the manager, what if a female city lover wants to see this mecca of drinks in kolkata and wants to experience it without feeling uncomfortable, will they allow ?
Loved it Indrajit. Our old time friend.
I would really love to visit this place once I am back in Kolkata. 🙂
I can really relate to this post… This place actually represents kolkata in spirit. puns intended… the place has the nostalgia of Calcutta… maybe you should also visit the rickety bar on the 1st floor of jadubabu bazar
One catch, just an information, nothing else. Shorts, Bermudas, Lungis are STRICTLY not allowed there. Another info, many famous people from the cultural / film industry were among the regulars to this place.
This very place is my kindergarten of drinking. Chhota bristol is like coffee house with booze.
[…] If you want to read about another bar, where everyday the service stops for 15 min because of puja b… […]
[…] You can check about the Chhota Bristol here […]
3 bochor age gechilam ,
bollo ‘Id card dekhao ‘, dekhalam , tokhon boyosh ekush !
Tarpor bole ‘ pochish er age dhokha jabe na’
Ekhono ek bochor wait korte Hobe ! 😀
Sir, Nowadays the display board is not available and a bowl of ice costs Rs. 15/-..
[…] But what you can expect, is a good service. the place runs on a pre-paid service, much like the Chhota Bristol or shaws Bar. One primary reason might be the assurance of payment after someone is […]
https://www.getbengal.com/details/chhota-bristol-or-shaw-brothers-kolkatas-oldest-bar-and-how-it-still-holds-on-since-1800s
https://www.facebook.com/lahiriindrajit , foodka aapnar lekha theke ektu jhereche ekhane!
O thik achhe… but thanks a lot for pointing out