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Barcollege addadrinksheritage foodjointhidden gemnostalgiaRestaurant in central Kolkata

Chhota Bristol or the Shaw’s Bar- the small tipsy Calcutta inside Calcutta

written by Indrajit Lahiri April 27, 2016

As I always say, “There lies numerous Calcutta inside Calcutta”….. When I told one of my friends that there’s a bar located almost on Esplanade crossing, where till date, Tuborg beer is priced at 115/- all inclusive, all I got was a glance of disbelief. And when I said, that the bar is also having AC and proper seating arrangement, he was nearly sure that I am on grass. So, the journey started for arguably Kolkata’s one of the oldest (and cheapest) bar with a pinch of history tucked in and some chilled beer.

Please remember, there can be an awesome foodwalk just near to this place … Check it here

Location and timing:

Standing in front of the famous K C Das sweet shop at the esplanade crossing, one needs to take the Lenin Sarani towards Moulali and the first dingy lane on right is the (in)famous Metro gully. Get in and on your right, you can find one place where numerous bikes are parked. The adjacent door is closely guarded by one security guy and lots of people waiting outside for their piece of chair. Its open on all regular days till 10 PM.

Just a piece of warning. Please avoid 530-7 PM, as its almost impossible to get a seat there as is full (mostly regulars). The service is closed during 6-615 PM, when the daily puja is performed at the counter. Mr Gour chandra Shaw is extremely particular in this aspect. Just when you get in those doors, you’ll find the menu on your right printed on a glow sign and tucked on wall and one LED screen displaying the liquor prices. Welcome to Chhota Bristol (once again).

Check the location on Google map here

As per my friend Amitava Gupta (heritage enthusiast), Shaw’s Bar was coined with the name Chota Bristol from the fact that it is housed on the backside of the same building where once the legendary Bristol Hotel used to stand. Journalists visiting this joint jokingly gave this name which has remained till date. This is why  despite the entrance of the bar being from “Metro Gulli”, the address is 1A Jawaharlal Nehru road.

Inside chhota Bristol Bar

Inside it seems like you’re in a market. everybody’s shouting, rather talking among themselves, having small talks- the topics ranging from politics to football, political leaders to religious leaders and any damn thing in between. The first challenge is to find a chair, or even to find one shared chair and getting settled. Once you start settling, your hearing capacity shifts its focus from the humming to individual talks and chit chats. And suddenly, out of nowhere a waiter appears. No, its against the norm there to carry a drinks card. They expect you to know your drinks and off course, you’re not expecting any fancy cocktail there.

Order your drinks and pay the waiter (its a pre-paid world). He’ll come back with your drinks and exact change and drinks for a more tables/ persons in a unique fashion. And in my last 15 years of experience there I’ve never seen them mixing up orders- never. with booze, comes a complementary chat of chhola, sliced giner and rock salt. You need to pay 2/- for a bowl of ice though.

About food and drinks at chhota Bristol bar

The beer is chilled and the glass is clean. Please don’t try to look down at the floors, as they say, let the sleeping dogs lie. Chhota Bristol doesn’t have a kitchen or food option, neither they plan to have it in near future. Instead there are snacks vendors. There are small joints outside on the road, who make some excellent chat and they sell it inside. Tip them around 5/- extra and special care will be taken for your order.

The range varies from peanuts (6/-) to mutton liver stir fried with onion and sliced green chilly (70/-). The mandatory fish finger is there 8 pcs for 70/-) with humble kasundi and mutton Bheja Fry. A lot many other options are there like chilly chicken, cheese cubes (diced in small cubes), salted cashew etc but one can’t have all at one go. The food is good, but nothing extraordinary. Regular honest spicy food, which goes well with booze. So, one can eat his heart out within 200-250/- per head.

 

My experience here

As I said, the food is not extra ordinary, but the overall ambiance is. In a place like this, you get to see the real Calcutta. Normal people from nearby offices, college goers, junior to mid level executives, businessmen- they all come down. Its more like a adda-khana with booze thrown in. Rather it’s more like a small version of the city herself, in its brilliant diverse state. Snobs are not welcome here, I heard neither are women (probably ladies wouldn’t have felt comfortable even). Its a dedicated men’s world inside and its preferred this way.

Even, here, I’ve seen a waiter denying drinks to a guest saying “boudi has allowed only 2 pegs and I won’t serve you more than that”. Now, Calcutta is meant to be this personal, whether we like it or not. In last probably more than 100 years, Chhota Bristol has been like this only (only the AC has been added). And frankly, we don’t normally mind that. Certain places are meant to represent a city- its insider stories and this is one of them….. Needless to say, I’ve won the bet from my friend and now, even he’s a regular at this joint.

P.S: If you’re still looking for dinner, you may try the nearby Anarkali Restaurant, for its Indian chilly chicken….. the blogpost can be checked here …

This restaurant was featured in the must-do pubs list in Kolkata in Outlook traveller Magazine, and the article was written by yours truly …

Bon apetite !!!

Comments and critics welcome.

I can be reached at indrajit.lahiri@ymail.com

 

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39 comments
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Indrajit Lahiri

Storyteller IT entrepreneur Retails sales channel partner Published author Food blogger Litfest Panelist Youtuber

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39 comments

madhushree basu roy April 28, 2016 - 5:23 pm

Brilliant post….loved it…almost wanting to experience…however from pics I can understand that this place is devoid of any women audience. Although I am sure my band wagon of boy friends would love going there.

Reply
indrajit Lahiri April 28, 2016 - 6:21 pm

You bet

Reply
Moumita Dasgupta April 29, 2016 - 2:21 pm

Just something fabulous and was yet unknown to me. I might have passed the place a number of times, there was Oli pub in the list…but this was an amazing take. Good to read Sir and the food look too delicious.

Reply
indrajit Lahiri April 29, 2016 - 3:04 pm

Thnx lady

Reply
Avineet Chakraborty April 29, 2016 - 3:53 pm

exquisite

Reply
Anirban Halder April 29, 2016 - 7:48 pm

This post smells of the quintessential Kolkata! Loved reading it! And I expect such posts on this blog. Keep such posts coming in between your reviews of upmarket restaurants that can be seen in any metro.

Reply
Arya Chakrabarty April 29, 2016 - 8:09 pm

Brilliant post. Makes me long for home even more. Something inexplicably romantic about such joints!

Reply
bikramadittya April 29, 2016 - 8:59 pm

Ooh Nostalgia, thy name is Shaw Bar. Remember, how we rookies just out of college went to this place one evening, ordered our drinks (Rum) and were satisfied with the complimentary chhilam and ginger when a dozen of law professionals kind of gheraoed us and filled our plates with kebabs and stuff from theirs. “Khao, khao, lojja koro na, nijer jayga toh eta. Amra boro dadar moto, dichchi, kheye felo.” OMG, never felt home like this anywhere in the world later. And of course changed our opinion about the ukil folks. 😉

Reply
indrajit Lahiri April 29, 2016 - 9:04 pm

Now that’s some experience…

Reply
bikramadittya April 29, 2016 - 9:00 pm

*Read chhola in place of chhilam please. That damn autocorrect. 🙂

Reply
Sabyasachi Chakraborty April 29, 2016 - 10:17 pm

Brilliant depiction. Feeling nostalgic now.

Reply
Ushnish ghosh April 30, 2016 - 8:03 am

I am spell bound .. Awesome writing
Frequented this place from1970- 1984.. AC was there then too. But interior is now much better as I see in the photo.
Only 2-3 times I had sat with Mr Shaw across the counter to have a drink with a friend . that friend a very few were allowed to sit at the counter ..I recall Mr Shaw showed a marriage album of family
Must visit next time I Am in Cal
Thanks for thiswo derful writing

Reply
indrajit Lahiri April 30, 2016 - 8:07 am

Thnx for liking it

Reply
indiasologuy April 30, 2016 - 10:54 am

Very interesting. As a photographer, I’d love to go here sometime.

Reply
indrajit Lahiri April 30, 2016 - 10:55 am

You’d probably love this place

Reply
Gautam Benegal April 30, 2016 - 2:15 pm

I have one KOSCHEN> How did boudi communicate to the waiter about the 2 pegs if women don’t go in?

Reply
indrajit Lahiri April 30, 2016 - 2:59 pm

Mobile calls…..

Reply
Debarpan Paul April 30, 2016 - 2:16 pm

Thanks for your information.. Evn i wl try it out there.

Reply
Ritobroto April 30, 2016 - 3:50 pm

As I said before, this one truly great post. Loved it!

Reply
indrajit Lahiri April 30, 2016 - 3:56 pm

Thnx a ton

Reply
TheGhoseSpot (@SandipGhose) May 1, 2016 - 3:42 pm

Sadly for all the lovely ladies going into raptures about CB – it’s a very chauvinistic watering hile that doesn’t allow women. So you need to invite Trupti Desai to Calcutta for breaking into this all male sanctum-sanctorum – which can almost claim the status of a temple for the regulars. But, as far as I know, CB is ‘t a 100 years old. It derives its name from Bristol Hotel which was housed in this once grand building. Bristol (owned by my Mother’s maternal family – Mitras of Patipukur) was one of the leading hotels of Calcutta before the Grand or Great Eastern. After it went to seed – like so many Bengali enterprises – Shaw’s Bar popped up at the back and was fondly christened Chita Bristol in the memory of the gran old dame who once stood there. Follow me on Twitter : @SandipGhose and Instagram – which has many pics of Chotta Bristol and Baro-Duari nearby.

Reply
TheGhoseSpot (@SandipGhose) May 1, 2016 - 3:43 pm

Sadly for all the lovely ladies going into raptures about CB – it’s a very chauvinistic watering hile that doesn’t allow women. So you need to invite Trupti Desai to Calcutta for breaking into this all male sanctum-sanctorum – which can almost claim the status of a temple for the regulars. But, as far as I know, CB is ‘t a 100 years old. It derives its name from Bristol Hotel which was housed in this once grand building. Bristol (owned by my Mother’s maternal family – Mitras of Patipukur) was one of the leading hotels of Calcutta before the Grand or Great Eastern. After it went to seed – like so many Bengali enterprises – Shaw’s Bar popped up at the back and was fondly christened Chita Bristol in the memory of the gran old dame who once stood there.

Reply
indrajit Lahiri May 1, 2016 - 5:59 pm

Thnx for the update

Reply
Sukanta Banerjee May 1, 2016 - 9:30 pm

Brilliant story- know this place – never tried but after reading this feel like trying soon – beside Tuborg – Carlsberg Elephant is also visible beer over there.

Reply
Anindita Shaw May 1, 2016 - 11:02 pm

I loved the post. Being the granddaughter of Gour Chandra Shaw , I feel really proud of the achievements we have accomplished all through their hard work. Thanks for sharing this post.

Reply
indrajit Lahiri May 1, 2016 - 11:04 pm

Thanks. I’d really love to have a word with seniors of your family for my blog. Please let me know if possible. Would appreciate a whatsapp/ PM at 9903528225

Reply
Debjani May 3, 2016 - 12:36 pm

Compact, informative and very smartly written…loved the article and Thanks for sharing another quintessential facet of my city! AT the risk of sounding desperate, I must confess that I have a knack of visiting the local pubs as these places always oozes out the local life more than anything else. While I was more than enthusiastic to venture this place next, i suddenly stumbled upon your line “Snobs are not welcome here, I heard neither are women..”, really ? Not even accompanied by a male friend ? In your next visit can you please ask the manager, what if a female city lover wants to see this mecca of drinks in kolkata and wants to experience it without feeling uncomfortable, will they allow ?

Reply
Ashok Kumar Roy May 5, 2016 - 2:25 pm

Loved it Indrajit. Our old time friend.

Reply
debajyotibasak May 8, 2016 - 12:58 pm

I would really love to visit this place once I am back in Kolkata. 🙂

Reply
sumit June 20, 2016 - 1:01 pm

I can really relate to this post… This place actually represents kolkata in spirit. puns intended… the place has the nostalgia of Calcutta… maybe you should also visit the rickety bar on the 1st floor of jadubabu bazar

Reply
ABHIJIT ROY August 22, 2017 - 8:22 am

One catch, just an information, nothing else. Shorts, Bermudas, Lungis are STRICTLY not allowed there. Another info, many famous people from the cultural / film industry were among the regulars to this place.

Reply
Dipbrata January 10, 2018 - 5:00 pm

This very place is my kindergarten of drinking. Chhota bristol is like coffee house with booze.

Reply
Broadway Bar and those huge windows that can make a gloomy day happy March 31, 2018 - 6:24 am

[…] If you want to read about another bar, where everyday the service stops for 15 min because of puja b… […]

Reply
Police Bar, a mini kolkata tucked inside Dacres Lane May 1, 2018 - 5:50 am

[…] You can check about the Chhota Bristol here […]

Reply
Soumya Das June 23, 2018 - 1:21 pm

3 bochor age gechilam ,
bollo ‘Id card dekhao ‘, dekhalam , tokhon boyosh ekush !
Tarpor bole ‘ pochish er age dhokha jabe na’

Ekhono ek bochor wait korte Hobe ! 😀

Reply
Dipanjan Dey September 28, 2018 - 6:46 am

Sir, Nowadays the display board is not available and a bowl of ice costs Rs. 15/-..

Reply
Tower bar- for adda near Sealdah station - Food Blog Mohamushkil-a bong foodie's quest about best foods in India February 12, 2019 - 6:03 am

[…] But what you can expect, is a good service. the place runs on a pre-paid service, much like the Chhota Bristol or shaws Bar. One primary reason might be the assurance of payment after someone is […]

Reply
Samik Chakraborty September 17, 2021 - 1:45 pm

https://www.getbengal.com/details/chhota-bristol-or-shaw-brothers-kolkatas-oldest-bar-and-how-it-still-holds-on-since-1800s
https://www.facebook.com/lahiriindrajit , foodka aapnar lekha theke ektu jhereche ekhane!

Reply
Indrajit Lahiri September 22, 2021 - 12:36 pm

O thik achhe… but thanks a lot for pointing out

Reply

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About Me

I, Indrajit Lahiri, am an entrepreneur by profession. After heading the Education BU of one of the largest OEMs globally, in 2012, I felt like starting something on my own and thus formed Pickle Solutions Pvt Ltd (http://picklesolutions.in/ ), which in turn became one of the leading IT roll-out firms, mostly working in the North-East part of India.

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