There is a particular problem with travelling in your late forties. You want to see the world, eat everything that looks interesting, walk through unfamiliar streets and soak in the local culture. But somewhere at the back of your mind, there is also a small voice asking whether the next meal is going to be too spicy, whether you have walked enough for the day, and whether the hotel has a decent breakfast buffet.
I speak from experience.
Phuket, Thailand, is usually sold to us through photographs of turquoise waters, dramatic limestone cliffs, speedboats and beaches that look as though somebody has increased the saturation on a television. Then there is Patong, with its nightlife, neon lights and Bangla Road, where the party seems to continue long after sensible people have gone to bed. But I have always believed that the best way to understand a place is to eat your way through its history.
On our recent Phuket trip with Adventure Safari Tours & Travels, we decided to explore two very different sides of the island. Our mornings belonged to Phuket Old Town, with its heritage eateries, old shophouses and food that tells stories of migration and trade. The evenings were reserved for Patong, where seafood, street markets and nightlife compete for your attention. And somewhere between a plate of roti and a bowl of Hokkien noodles, Phuket began to reveal a side that has little to do with beaches.
We stayed at Patong Resort Hotel, conveniently located for exploring Patong Beach and its surrounding attractions. For a food-focused traveller, a hotel is not merely a place to sleep. It is the starting point of the day’s gastronomic adventures. You need a comfortable room, easy transport connections and, ideally, a breakfast that does not leave you hunting for food an hour later. The hotel had spacious rooms, a large swimming pool and a breakfast spread that covered the familiar continental options alongside several hot savoury dishes and fresh tropical fruits.
The eggs and sausages, in particular, had a satisfying, old-fashioned richness. Perhaps it was the holiday mood, perhaps the morning appetite, but they reminded me of the simple pleasure of a proper breakfast before setting out to explore an unfamiliar city.
The location was another advantage. Patong’s busy beachfront and nightlife were within walking distance, while morning excursions to Phuket Old Town could be planned without too much logistical drama. It was a useful base from which to experience both the relaxed and the rather less restrained sides of Phuket.
Please check the location here
Phuket Old Town is roughly 10–12 kilometres from Patong, although the journey can take considerably longer depending on traffic. The two places seem to belong to different worlds. Patong is loud, energetic and unapologetically touristy. Old Town is more measured. Its streets are lined with colourful shophouses, traditional businesses, cafés and buildings that have survived long enough to witness several versions of Phuket. The history is worth understanding before you begin eating.
During the nineteenth century, Phuket became an important centre of tin mining. The industry attracted Chinese migrants, particularly from the Hokkien-speaking communities, alongside traders and settlers from other parts of Asia and Europe. Muslim communities also contributed to the island’s commercial and culinary life. Over time, these influences met local Thai traditions and developed into a distinctive food culture. The architecture tells part of the story, with its Sino-Portuguese appearance, while the kitchens tell the rest.
In 2015, Phuket was recognised by UNESCO as a Creative City of Gastronomy. It is an honour that makes sense when you realise that the island’s food is not simply Thai cuisine served beside a beach. It is the product of centuries of cultural exchange. For a Bengali, this idea is not difficult to understand. Kolkata’s food has also been shaped by migration, trade, communities and the passage of time. We may argue endlessly about the origins of a particular chop or the superiority of one neighbourhood’s biryani, but we know that food rarely respects neat geographical boundaries.
Our Old Town breakfast destination was Roti Taew Nam, a much-loved local establishment recognised by the Michelin Guide with a Bib Gourmand distinction. Please check the Google location here
The Bib Gourmand is worth explaining. It recognises restaurants offering good-quality food at reasonable prices. It is not the same as a Michelin star, and that distinction matters when describing the place accurately.
The restaurant specialises in roti, eggs and curry, a combination that feels wonderfully familiar even when you are thousands of kilometres from Bengal. We ordered roti with fried eggs and chicken Massaman curry. The roti arrived crisp around the edges, with delicate layers that reminded me of a well-made lachha paratha. The fried egg was straightforward, the sort of thing that rarely needs an elaborate description when it has been cooked properly.
Then came the curry.
Massaman is a Southern Thai curry with a fascinating history of its own. Its flavour profile reflects older connections between Thai cooking and the wider Muslim trading world, with influences from South Asian and Persian culinary traditions. Coconut milk gives it body, while spices such as cinnamon and cardamom, along with peanuts and tamarind, create a rounded flavour that is different from the sharper, chilli-driven curries many visitors associate with Thailand.
It is aromatic, gently sweet, nutty, and comforting.
The combination of roti, egg and curry makes for an excellent breakfast. According to the prices we encountered, two plain rotis cost around 20 Thai baht, two rotis with one egg about 30 baht, and two rotis with two eggs about 40 baht. A more substantial breakfast with curry came to roughly 60 baht per person. At those prices, a Michelin-recognised breakfast felt like an especially pleasant discovery.
There is something reassuring about beginning a day with bread, egg and gravy. Change the spices, move the plate to another continent, and the basic human pleasure remains much the same.
After breakfast, we spent some time walking around the Old Town streets, particularly Thalang and Dibuk Roads.
This is not the place to rush through with your eyes fixed on a phone. Look up occasionally. The façades, shutters, decorative details and narrow shopfronts reveal a different chapter of Phuket’s past. Many of these buildings reflect the island’s mixed Chinese and European influences, developed during the years when tin brought wealth and opportunity to the town. Today, some house cafés, shops and restaurants, while others continue to serve ordinary local needs. That coexistence is what makes a historic neighbourhood interesting. It is not merely a film set preserved for visitors; it is also a living part of the city.
We stopped for fresh coconut, with tender coconut water and the soft flesh scooped out to eat. A serving cost around 60 baht. For anyone accustomed to Kolkata’s summer afternoons, a fresh coconut needs no introduction. It is nature’s perfectly packaged answer to thirst. The only difference is that, in Phuket, you get to enjoy it while looking at buildings that have watched the island change over generations.
If breakfast was comforting, lunch took us deeper into Phuket’s history.
Mee Ton Poe, located near the clock tower roundabout in Phuket Town, is famous for its Hokkien noodles. The restaurant dates back to 1946 and has continued across generations of the same family. The story is closely linked to the Chinese migration that accompanied Phuket’s tin-mining boom. Migrants brought their languages, traditions, and cooking techniques with them, adapting familiar dishes to local ingredients and tastes. Hokkien noodles became one of the enduring results of that exchange. Please check the Google location here.
We ordered the stir-fried noodles, along with fried pork satay and Tom Yum soup.
The Hokkien noodles are thick, yellow and substantial. They are cooked over high heat with ingredients that can include pork, seafood, greens and a savoury sauce. Done well, the noodles absorb the seasoning without losing their texture. There is also that elusive quality chefs call wok hei—literally, the breath of the wok. It describes the smoky, complex character produced by intense heat and skilful stir-frying. It is difficult to manufacture that flavour in a home kitchen, which is why a good wok-based noodle dish can be so satisfying. The satay offered another kind of pleasure: grilled meat, crisp edges, tender centres and peanut sauce. Tom Yum, meanwhile, brought the familiar Thai combination of sourness, heat and aromatic herbs into the meal.
The dishes we tried were priced at approximately 80–90 baht each, making this a relatively affordable lunch.
One small clarification for food travellers: Mee Ton Poe has appeared in Michelin Guide selections, including Michelin Plate recognition in earlier editions. That is different from a Michelin star or a Bib Gourmand award.
But labels aside, its real significance lies in its longevity. A restaurant that has continued serving its community since 1946 has witnessed enormous changes in Phuket—from a mining town to a modern tourist destination.
And the noodles are still doing their job.
For me, that is often a better story than any award.
By evening, we returned to Patong, where Phuket’s personality changes rather dramatically.
The quiet, historic streets of Old Town give way to traffic, music, bright lights and crowds. Bangla Road is at the centre of this energy, with bars, live entertainment and a steady stream of visitors looking for a good time. If you prefer a quick Western-style burger before venturing into the nightlife, Prime Burger is one option along the Patong strip. But we were there for dinner, and our destination was the Bangla Road street-food market area.
The setup was straightforward: food stalls along an open-air lane, communal tables in the middle, and menus competing for attention. You find a seat and order from the vendors, making it possible to build a meal from several different stalls. We began with prawn som tam, the Thai green papaya salad. The unripe papaya is shredded and pounded with lime juice, fish sauce, chillies and other seasonings. Our version included prawns, and we chose a medium level of spice.
That last decision is worth mentioning to Indian travellers. We often assume that our tolerance for chilli prepares us for every Asian cuisine. Sometimes it does. Sometimes a Thai chilli has other plans.
The salad was refreshing, sharp and spicy, with a satisfying contrast between the crunchy papaya and the seafood. Next came crispy prawns, lightly battered and deep-fried, served with sweet chilli sauce. They were easy to enjoy, particularly as a shared dish. The seafood green curry arrived with steamed rice. Coconut milk softened the heat, while the aromatic curry paste supplied its characteristic fragrance. With squid and prawns in the mix, it made a substantial dinner. The dishes we ordered were around 200 baht per large seafood serving, according to our experience. That is a useful reference point, although prices vary between stalls, portion sizes and seafood selections.
There is one practical lesson to remember here. Some vendors actively encourage visitors to order premium seafood or exotic meats, including crocodile and mantis shrimp. If you are interested, ask for the price before ordering. If you are not, a polite but firm refusal is perfectly acceptable.
The food is only one part of the experience. The noise, the crowds, the music, and the constant movement are inseparable from Patong’s evening atmosphere. Nearby, beachside fire shows add another layer of spectacle. Old Town asks you to slow down and notice the details. Patong asks you to keep looking because something else is always happening. Neither experience is necessarily better than the other. They simply reveal different versions of the same island.
1. Start early in Old Town. Aim to reach the heritage eateries in the morning. Roti Taew Nam is a breakfast destination, so do not leave it until lunchtime.
2. Use ride-hailing apps. Grab and Bolt can be useful for travelling between Patong and Phuket Town. We encountered fares in the region of 300–320 baht each way, although demand, traffic and pickup locations affect the final price.
3. Carry cash. Smaller eateries and street-food vendors may prefer cash, so keep some Thai baht handy.
4. Confirm seafood prices before ordering. Ask for the price by portion or weight, and check whether rice, sauces or other additions cost extra. This is especially useful in busy tourist markets.
5. Keep a separate day for island excursions. Phuket Old Town and Patong deserve time of their own. If you are travelling onwards to Krabi, compare current ferry and road-transfer schedules before booking. Journey times vary by service, route and season.
Phuket’s beaches may bring you to the island, but its food gives you reasons to remember it. A breakfast of roti and Massaman curry tells the story of cultural exchange. A bowl of Hokkien noodles carries the legacy of Chinese migration and the island’s tin-mining prosperity. A seafood dinner in Patong captures the modern Phuket, where tourism has created an energetic, occasionally overwhelming, but undeniably memorable street life.
What I liked most was the contrast. In the morning, we were walking past old shophouses and eating food whose history stretched back generations. By evening, we were surrounded by music, neon lights and seafood stalls doing their best to persuade us to order one more dish.
As a Bengali, I suppose I will always look for a connection between the food on my plate and the people who put it there. We have grown up believing that food is never just food. It is memory, migration, geography, family and sometimes a little bit of stubbornness. Phuket reminded me of that. And if you happen to be there, do yourself a favour. Go beyond the beach, find a humble breakfast shop, order the roti, sit down for those Hokkien noodles, and leave some room for dinner in Patong.
The island has plenty to tell you. Some of its best stories arrive on a plate.
Bon Appetit!!!
indrajit.lahiri@ymail.com
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